Archive for the ‘ Packaging for cosmetics and perfumes ’ Category

Packaging of the year

Hello!

Today I would tell you about the “21st International Award” organized by the Italian Accademia del Profumo, last 16th April 2010 in Bologna.

The winners have been LOLA by Marc Jacobs (in the class of female perfumes) and CK Free by Calvin Klein (in the group of male perfumes).

But what is interesting for  this blog is related to the class of packaging: stressing the increasing importance of packaging for perfumes, Accademia Del Profumo has recently added awards for the best female packaging and the best male one.

This year the Special Jury Award for the best female packaging has been given to “A scent by Issey Miyake”.

Also -this Issey Miyake creation is guided by the quest for essentials as a new means of expression and is faithful to his motto “perfume is air that smells good” – explained the jury.

In this new creation, Miyake combines traditional raw materials with latest processing techniques and nature with technology. The fragrance has been created by Daphné Bugey, perfumier of Firmenich.

The luxury of the essentials is also reflected in the packaging created by the designer Arik Levy: the bottle emerges from a block of glass. Devised by the designer Taku Satoh, the logo carved on the inside of the bottle highlights its allure, with the aid of a secret high-tech production process.

The peak of transparency is achieved in the case, wich reveals its contents with never a shadow or hint of mystery, saying nothing but the barest essentials: the bottle’s shape and the perfume’s name, in a colour -green- that perfectly harmonises  with the olfactory composition

The Special Jury Award for the best male packaging is, instead, for “Dsquared2, He Wood Rocky Mountain Wood“.

Wood plays the starring role in this perfume for men belonging to the Dsquared2 “Nature always wins” collection.

Wood is a sign of strength and purity, a forceful reminder of the origins of the two Canadian fashion designers.

Daphné Bugey of Firmenich has interpreted wood’s strength in a virile amalgam of vetiver and cedar wood.

The same authentic refinement comes across from the packaging’s  lines and colours: the ring in wich the bottle is set is a sophisticated detail: a wooden frame, with the perfume’s name laser-carved into one side, surrounds the bottle’s perfectly square glass. The whole thing is housed in a black box that is further embellished by a tasteful bronze graphic sign in relief.

Packaging phase: the last but not the least in cosmetic production

The end of line isn’t a marginal part of production and cannot be performed without a precise logistics.

In smaller companies, the premium or niche perfumes  are still manually worked, through simple but very careful processes. The outputs from the packaging machinery are stored in boxes manually, and control boxes are individually made by a charged person before they are stacked on pallets, tapes and sent to storage as finished products.

Working large amounts, the industrial lines provide end of line with automatic cartooning, labeling, palletizing and taping managed by special softwares. The production made in small batches on the same line but in different packages is now the rule especially for contractors.

The format change is the crux of this area and should be quick and simple, so it doesn’t require specialized staff. Boxing can be loaded from the bottom, suitable for handing delicate products, or horizontal loading, perfect packaging when selling the product to be included in the box is pretty hard (boxes or cans). The assembled set of products  is pushed in the chest, placed in the car so that they show opening on one side.

The case packer must have three conditions: easy, reliable and flexible.

The taping can be done with a tape or a gummed paper tape. It can be manual or semi-fixed, requiring manual set up bat allow the filling and sealing of the box without the assistance of an operator. The automatic variable format recognition system height and width boxes is based on pneumatic and electromechanical systems.

To each pack its material

As we have seen, the rating of a beauty product isn’t limited to the results, the texture or the pleasantness of the smell, but also it extends to the packaging, which makes adifference on the shelf, enhancing the feeling of uniqueness and prestige.

Marketing experts conduct detailed researches before launching a new package.  The most important and innovative companies project a brief  to conduct the project of  new packaging: the brief is the result of creativity and technical expertise of a packaging team made up of creative designers and engineers who collaborate with suppliers of materials to create something functional, tangible and impact, always considering that a pack hasn’t happened when it looses sight of its purposes and meets the expectations of its users.

Among the materials used to create primary packaging there are:

  • PP (polypropylene): thanks to the good  mechanical properties, chemical resistance and high impermeability o water vapor, it is suitable for battles or films oriented;

 

  • PET (polyethylene terephthalate): it has among its features high mechanical properties, toughness, good thermal and chemical resistance and an excellent transparency and brilliance;

 

  • PE (polyethylene): it has a good mechanical strength and rigidity, resistance to acids, alkalis, saline solutions and various organic solvents but with a lack of transparency, it is ideal for caps and closures;

 

  • Metal: it evokes strength and masculinity, it is low-cost and durable and suitable for products fora young male target, for the talents and capabilities of transmitting the message of modernity;

 

  • Plastic: it is no longer a poor material because many researches have declined it into highly resistant formulas, so it is now able to achieve aesthetic effects truly remarkable, thanks to its high processability, even from the standpoint of printing techniques used. As the metal material is a young and modern, durable and good value for money;

 

  • Stock:light, cheap and convenient, it can be worked into any shape but it is easily worn. Worked in keyed cardboard takes a central role as a real booster packaging;

 

  • Glass: synonymous of luxury, refinement, it lends itself to be used, often enhanced by new workings, within the high-end products. For its qualities of high protection of the product and interaction is ideal for low alcohol products. Its fragility clashes in some applications with the qualities of functionality. In single.dose vials, for example, it is intended to be replaced by plastic vials.

Design packaging for perfumes by Gerresheimer Group

With 17 plants in Europe and America, Gerresheimer Group stands as one of the leading international suppliers of high quality packaging solutions, plastic and glass, particularly those addressing the cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.

When it comes to customize a glass as a packaging material for specific brands and products, Gerresheimer is certainly one of the most sought-after partner in the perfume and cosmetic industry.

I present the case of Gerresheimer as I consider this group a very interesting reality in packaging design for cosmetics. In fact, Gerresheimer not only offers a wide range of shapes, but also various colours, printing on ceramics, screen printing with organic materials and so on in an almost unlimited range of products constantly updated to satisfy every need to match the pack to fashion trends. Unilever, Procter&Gamble, Avon, Yves Saint Laurent and Elizabeth Arden are some of Gerrresheimer’s major customers.

Gerresheimer, therefore, continues to offer the beauty market not only functional packs but also provides important aesthetic trends for the world of luxury perfumes and cosmetics.

Recently, for example, the multinational Ulric Des Varens  presented its fragrance, Lily Silver, with a Gerresheimer pack: a striking composition that combines two circular shapes in a magic way made of different materials, glass and pexiglass. With this bottle, which follows the glass bottle Varens Duo, always produced by Gerresheimer, the group has created a product with a very young personality and a delightfully feminine atmosphere.

 

Sometimes, even the ethnic influences from all over the world help Gerresheimer in its creation: often only gently suggested, these factors could produce  effects of particular fascination, especially in modern design. With two new bottles made of Yves Rocher, Gerresheimer has captured the sensuality of oriental fragrances in a thin glass, rounded shapes, strong colours. Opulent yet strictly restrained creations are the basis for spray perfume environments: Jardin D’Egypt and Secrtes d’Hammann.

Finally, two signed Gerresheimer achievements have become a classic for their modernity: the bottle Bazar by Christian Lacroix structured on the contrast between the simplistic of its geometric forms and rich decorations of the Orient and the “lighthouse” for Bleu Marin by Pierre Cardin.

Traceability: the new value added in luxury perfumery from San Giuliano Milanese

Do you know that the scents of some of the most famous Italian fashion brands were born in San Giuliano Milanese, hinterland of Milan?

Founded in 1994 by Lorenzo Cecchini and Giancarlo De Bernardi, Cosmeta has followed a development path that led it to win the confidence of some of the most successful brands in the fragrance industry. Have you ever seen any packages of perfumes of Dolce&Gabbana? Some of those are realized by Cosmeta. After Dolce&Gabbana in 2000, with the acquisition of other clients of this caliber, Cosmeta expanded its turnover and production structure and rethought its approach to quality customer service.

Cosmeta was chosen by Dolce&Gabbana because it had a personal relationship with its client company’s management that knew Cosmeta could make sure production of high quality, without disappointing. With the same philosophy, successively, Cosmeta  produced for Moschino, Versace, Blumarine, Venturi and so on.

The development of Cosmeta is based on a renew of the concept of quality. Today the term quality for cosmetic sector has many meanings but the main objective is to ensure the safety of consumers’ product buy, then Cosmeta  is involved at every level. And yet, Cosmeta members are called to pay the utmost attention to dressing , to be held in accordance with the highest standards of safety imposed by their most demanding clients and they also benefit everyone else.

Cosmetics has is own distinctive identity over competitors thanks to traceability: while once a perfume is taken off the market when it was “worn out”, very few products are now permanently of the hit parade of best-sellers (such as Chanel n.5, to quote a bestseller); among other perfumes there are many commercial products, related to the collection, which lasts a few months, which generates a huge turnover in perfumery. But if a perfume wants to stay long on the market, should be top of the range, becoming an object of wish, be wrapped in a packaging that conveys the values of quality and exclusivity of their brand and be done with first class components, assemblies recipes in balanced, very difficult to develop, wich appeal to the market , with which the discerning customer can identify.

Cosmeta is called, however, not only to focus on the quality of raw materials,  manufacturing process or packaging, but also, for another element that gives value to the perfume and wich differentiates the market, TRACEABILITY, in fact. Besides the unique design of the bottle or the fragrance that touches the emotional strings of the target which is studied, the security guarantee is the added value of the product for the consumer. Traceabilty allows to trace the history of the perfume, just as in food or in pharmaceutical industry, each bottle must be traced, the consumers must know not only what are its constituents, but also by whom it was produced and when. This new value added can make the difference.

The challenges of packaging for the beauty

The market for beauty is a rich and fertile soil in which the possibilities of expression are virtually limitless. In the cosmetics industry, brand owners and manufacturers work  in an integrated way with companies specialized in packaging , which translate their demands into the product range luxury or mass-market, with a prevalent function of architectural design and costs balance.

There are few areas which, like that of cosmetics and perfumes, they lend themselves so well to shape formal experimentation, creativity and style to new design trends, through a judicious use of packaging, so that some of the pack born as real “creation” in this context become global icons of modern times. Materials, shapes and colours come into play working alongside the aspects related to differentiate and characterize the product contained and, ultimately, to catalyze the interests of consumers and induce them to purchase. But aesthetics alone is not enough, must be linked to quality of Italian industry .

But what is the critical succes factor for packaging in cosmetics?

A study conducted by Databank shows that the pack is one of the keys to the success of a cosmetic product and for the perfumery channel. Databank considered separately cosmetics, perfumery  and hair products and personal hygiene, giving a score from 1 to 10 for each critical factor. So, in the case of cosmetic products,  the innovation and differentiation are the main reasons for success, in addition to formulation, achieved through heavy investment in research and development. The commitment of product differentiation has focused also on the packaging, more and more care in terms of aesthetic and functional. It has affected companies operating in mass market. The same product innovation and development of specific treatments tend to differentiate the forms of presentation (single-dose, capsule, gel…), easier to use (formulas a day, produced multiple functions…), and improve safety increases.

As is clear from the assessments collected by Databank , for perfumery the pack is a critical success factor to the effectiveness of the formulation and quality. In fact, the scent is characterized by its subjective use value, its abilty to conduct a functional benefit to the consumers’ personalities: it’s a self-gratifying consumption, which permits its image externally.  But it’s not just the fragrance that should gratify the consumers, but also the packaging: the survey showed that the packaging is considered the most critical success factor(rating 9), while price is a much less decisive factor(rating 8).

The innovation of the pack and the evolution of consumption.

It is clear that the producers of cosmetics, perfumes and toiletry point not olny to differentiate themselves, but also to develope an increasingly broad range of products, and respond quicly to the new demands of consumers with products and innovative packaging.

How to change the relationship between the cosmetic industry and its supply chain?

As noted by Dieter Bakic, of  the homonymous company, in a recent article published in the German press over the past 30 years, there has been a change in the cosmetics industry and the packaging, which was rich in implications. Once, identifying a single company was normal for a brand of cosmetics. That company often distributed only that brand. Today, however, brand owners and manufacturers are often different entities. This transformation has triggered the emergence of new procedures  for reconciling the proposals and the needs of both. In the current market, brand owners call their supply chain to provide them equally innovative packaging solutions. In a climate of enormous global competitiveness, brand owners have sought the competitive, which would allow them to respond to market changes. So, many brand owners have found outsurcing of many operations, such as design, development, production and logistics. This practice allows them to focus on what they do best in the cosmetics industry: to discover consumers’ needs within their specific target groups.

According Bakic about packaging, if we consider that the package currently accounts for the 25-40% on the costs of the product and its supply may also represent the 60% of these costs, the implementation of an integrated management of packaging clearly represents the difference in terms of cost saving. This integration is in cosmetics industry: the effectiveness of recipes and the development of systems for innovative applications get married with the packaging technolgy.

As directed by the brand owner, the supplier develops packaging solutions that embody the soul of the brand  and the virtues of the product.